Surfing Extreme

Feeling the rippling water as I jump onto my surf board. The soft breeze brushing the loose bits of hair back. On the horizon a big blue wave was approaching me. My confidence grew wider as I padddled closer. I couldn't help myself from racing to the huge white surf.  I started paddling towards the big wave. One metre away I duckdived underneath the first wave and went for the biggest white surf of all time in Hawaii. Picking up my pace, getting closer and closer, paddling and paddling, I stood up and sprays of water splashed into my ears.